Insights into buying value Burgundy
A Domaine Collotte tasting raised some interesting questions
It’s always a tricky question. How do you buy Burgundy if, like me, you find the wines in the region often beguiling but are on a limited budget?
It was something that played on my mind during a generous tasting at the South Kensington branch of Amathus in March led by wine educator, judge and Master of Wine student Sanya Abhay.
We tasted six wines by Isabelle and Philippe Collotte, whose eponymous domaine is in Marsannay in the north of the Cote de Nuits close to Dijon. They farm 16 hectares in that appellation and also have plots in Chambolle-Musigny, Fixin and Gevrey-Chambertin. Amathus retail their wines.
The wines were at different price points and, perhaps more interestingly, from two vintages, and the variations in style and price on display made for some interesting discussions and provided plenty of food (or drink) for thought.
Domaine Collotte Bourgogne Pinot Noir ‘Cuvee de Noble Souche’ 2022 (£25)
As befitting a warm vintage, the red fruit is generous, well-defined and ripe. The tannin is low and this is easy-drinking, although the retail price is unfortunately a tad on the high side, and if I was seeking a wine in this style I would probably look to Beaujolais and save around £10, but that’s not to say the wine isn’t decent quality.
Domaine Collotte Marsannay ‘Cuvee Vieilles Vignes’ 2021 (£30)
From a difficult vintage characterised by low yields owing to frost and disease. The year was far cooler than 2022 and as a consequence the wines are generally lighter and less opulent, but this doesn’t necessarily mean 2021s are to be avoided, particularly if a pinot displaying more herbal characteristics is up your street, and I found this a slight step up in quality on the first wine, more interesting, with cedary and menthol notes complementing the fruit. The tannins are slightly grippy, perhaps symptomatic of the cool vintage, particularly since Marsannay is the northern-most appellation in the Cote de Nuits and therefore cooler.
Domaine Collotte Marsannay ‘Les Boivins’ 2021 (£36.50)
Richer on the nose than the previous two wines, with black and red fruit and clove, toast and sweet spice as a result of maturation in oak, 25 per cent new. The finish is long and complex and the wine is drinking well. I would be happy to purchase this at the price despite the vintage. The judicious use of the new oak helps to give textural richness. Whereas in warmer vintages new oak can make the wine a bit too bulky, it can complement cooler vintages where the fruit is generally less ripe.
This is where knowledge of producers comes in handy, because the best ones are able to adjust winemaking and maturation strategies to suit the vintage, and Sanya said: “The producer is always my main consideration when selecting Burgundy. Even in lesser vintages, the best producers manage to overcome the difficulties of the year and find balance in the wines.”
Domaine Collotte Gevrey-Chambertin 2022 (£62.50)
Made from vines grown in the north of the appellation. The grapes are 100 per cent destemmed and after fermentation the wine was aged in French oak for 16 months. It shows depth on the nose with ripe black fruit, clove, sweet spice and a touch medicinal with liquorice. The tannins are fairly high and a bit grippy. It’s a bit shy on the palate and Sanya thought it would benefit from ageing. It will improve into a complex wine and is one to cellar, not least because it has the depth of fruit from 2022.
Domaine Collotte Chambolle-Musigny ‘Cuvee Cuvee Vieilles Vignes’ (£73)
The Chambolle-Musigny appellation is known for producing delicate and floral wines, something this exhibited. It was almost the antithesis of the Gevrey-Chambertin. The tannins are lower and more silky, and whether you’d prefer this depends on the style of wine you like. Such is the intricate tapestry of the terroir in Burgundy that each plot, or ‘climat’ (there are 1,800 of them) has the potential to produce a unique style, and you can spend a lifetime tasting wines from Burgundy without getting bored.
Domaine Collotte Marsannay Blanc 2022 (£35) (link is to the 2021 vintage)
The fresh citrus and green fruit make for a refreshing wine with some complexity from 50 per cent maturation in new oak and some slight batonnage. It’s a decent wine, but I’d probably look to another region for a cheaper alternative in the same style.
I grabbed Sanya afterwards and asked him to elaborate on his thought process when it comes to buying Burgundy. Aside from knowing who the quality producers are (such as Domaine Collotte), he added: “With regard to white Burgundy, I tend to lean towards cooler vintages like 2014, 2017 and 2021 that show greater freshness and transparency in terms of expression of place.
“As for recent red vintages, the warmer 2018-20s and 2022s show generosity of fruit which makes them seductive in their youth, but some wines risk leaning towards the overripe to jammy end of the spectrum.
“Cooler vintages like 2021 that are more heterogeneous in quality and can show a marked herbaceous edge with the risk of having green, unripe tannins but those seeking a classic expression of Burgundy may be willing forego the risk that comes with exploring inconsistent vintages in order to find the gems.”
Overripness and high alcohol levels are a real danger for producers in this era of warmer vintages, particularly those with plots in the Grands Crus. Sanya added: “Global warming has forced producers to find ways to retain acidity, freshness and curb sugar accumulation.
“In warmer years, some of the better-exposed sites like the Grand Cru, Batard-Montrachet that is often characterised by its weight and power can overstep the line from restrained opulence to overindulgence.
“Less-heralded, higher-elevation sites in the Hautes-Côtes that may have struggled to fully ripen in days gone by are now being given their due respect by up-and-coming producers who are unable to purchase land in the more glamorous appellations and can offer excellent value and freshness in hot vintages.”
Domaine Collotte is a producer I will continue to look out for, particularly their more prestigious wines, and I plan to seek out the up-and-coming producers from the Hautes-Cotes regions (Beaune and Nuits) Sanya refers to. It could prove to be an excellent strategy for finding budget, quality Burgundy. Watch this space.
Flight 14 – all organic
Borell Diehl Spatburgunder 2021, Pfalz (£16.99 The Winery)
Seeing as this post is focused on pinot noir (or spatburgunder as it’s called in Germany) it makes sense to include one in the latest flight. Organic and vegan, lovely red sour cherry, cranberry, fruits of the forest with faint hints of herbs. Easy-drinking but with complexity. Perfect served slightly chilled with a lightish lunch.
Insolia-carricante blend IGT Siciliane (Falde) 2022 (£7.00 Lidl)
From the Falde region in eastern Sicily. Not bad for the price, it’s citrusy with green fruit and some hints of herbs. The fruit isn’t confected so nice and refreshing – ideal with your favourite crisps. Organic.
Domaine Gauby Vieilles Vignes 2017, Roussillon, (£35 Wine Society)
From a famous organic producer. A GSM blend with some carignan as well. One year on after first trying this vintage I was curious to know whether the wine had developed. The red fruit detected last year is beginning to become more dried and the tannins are softer. Lovely herbal and savoury element to this with tobacco on the long finish and is definitely entering its tertiary phase. Just 13% abv and the high acidity means freshness is intact. Will age for a few years more.