Know Your Grapes part 9: semillon, gruner veltliner and assyrtiko
Plus some wines from a Lea & Sandeman tasting
One under-appreciated variety, another that is ultra-trendy and one which has consistently achieved a niche following. These are characteristics of the three white grapes that make up the latest instalment of the Know Your Grapes series, which has been sadly neglected in recent months.
For those relatively new to my Substack, the links to the previous eight instalments can be found at the bottom of this post. Here you can find famous varieties such as chardonnay, riesling, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, together with recommendations, which you can purchase from supermarkets or Majestic.
Semillon
Characteristics It’s a winemakers’ grape, so semillon’s profile depends on what the ultimate aim is. It can be light with low alcohol with grassy, lemony aromatics (if picked early), toasty and textured (if spending time in oak) or sweet and intensely flavoured if influenced by the effects of noble rot.
Where is it grown? Two main areas: Bordeaux and Hunter Valley in New South Wales. In the former it makes up the main part of the blend in the famous sweet wine sauternes, as well as the dry whites of excellent quality from Pessac-Leognan to the north of Graves on the Left Bank.
In Hunter Valley it is picked early for its high acidity, which is a key factor for successful long-term ageing. These wines, lemony and relatively neutral in youth, begin to develop toasty, nutty and honeyed characteristics in time. Semillon is also grown in Barossa Valley, Margaret River in Western Australia, where it is blended with sauvignon blanc, parts of South Africa and Chile.
Coolness rating 1/5 Has unfairly suffered, despite being responsible for some of the greatest wine in the world (you’ll be lucky to get your hands on a bottle of sweet wine Chateau d’Yquem in Bordeaux for £200). The unpopularity of sweet wine, and the rise of other white varieties, such as sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio, has contributed to its uncoolness.
Recommendations
Budget Difficult to get anything decent under a tenner in supermarkets. I suggest Vasse Felix’s Classic Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (£12.50 Tesco). Seventy per cent of the blend contains semillon and the producer is one of the best in Margaret River.
Mid-range Tyrrell’s is a famous producer in Hunter Valley and its Brookdale Semillon (£15 Tesco) is a good starting point for exploring the variety from a region that prides itself on top-notch semillon.
For a special occasion A decent white from Pessac-Leognan will go down a treat, and semillon usually makes up the majority of the blend. Unfortunately, it’s hard to get from supermarkets or Majestic, but the latter stocks the South African equivalent made by Vergelegen in Stellenbosch. The ‘GVB’ (£27.99, £24.99 Mix Six) is mostly made up of semillon, with the remainder sauvignon blanc. It has been aged in oak for extra toasty notes and texture.
Gruner Veltliner
Characteristics High acidity with a range of fruit profiles depending on site selection. Can be intensely peachy or more leaner with green fruit and citrus. Its calling card is peppery aromas, because the skins of the grapes contain rotundone, a chemical compound also found in syrah, but again this depends on the style of wine being made.
Where is it grown? Austria, and in particular Niederösterreich (lower Austria). It’s the country’s signature grape variety and it produces some excellent gruners, particularly from Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal regions near the Danube to the north-west of Vienna. Lots of it is also grown in Wienviertel. Also grown in the Adelaide Hills in Australia. Can struggle to ripen in most of northern Europe.
Coolness rating 3/5 Has a faithful following and tends to appear on quite a few lists in London wine bars. Has good ageing potential, which goes down well with collectors.
Recommendations
Budget Aldi’s Specially Selected Gruner Veltliner (£6.29) won a Bronze at Decanter’s World Wine Awards and represents great value at the price.
Mid-range Domaine Wachau’s ‘Weingarten Weissenkirchen’ Gruner Veltliner Federspiel (£14.99 Majestic, £12.99 Mix Six) is a fresh example of a gruner (‘federspiel’ denotes alcohol levels between 11.5% and 12.5% abv in the Wachau region).
For a special occasion Brundlmayer, based in Kamptal, is one of the most respected producers in Austria and its 2022 ‘Langenloiser Alte Reben’ Organic Gruner Veltliner (£39,99 Majestic, £34.99 Mix Six) is a more riper example of the variety. It probably needs a few years cellaring before it shows its very best.
Assyrtiko
Characteristics Similar to gruner veltliner in that it tends to have high acidity and fruit flavours can range from citrus to stone fruit. Can also have flinty, smoky aromas and reacts well to secondary winemaking, such as oak maturation and lees ageing.
Where is it grown? Greece’s key variety and has done most to raise that country’s profile on the world stage. Assyrtiko from Santorini can command premium prices but there are also excellent examples from other parts of Greece (see this post for an account of where else it is grown). Doesn’t have much prominence outside that country, but some is grown in Australia.
Recommendations
Budget There’s not a huge choice in supermarkets. Waitrose stocks the Zacharias Assyrtiko (£12.99), which is probably best if you’re looking for a touch of varietal typicity.
Mid-range Jim Barry has pioneered the production of assyrtiko in Australia, and his ‘The Aegean’ Assyrtiko 2023 from Clare Valley (£17.99 Majestic, £14.99 Mix Six) is a safe bet for an example of a quality wine from the variety.
For a special occasion Santorini is where the best assyrtiko in the world hails from, and Santo Wines, a cooperative based on the island, makes some excellent expressions. Majestic stocks one of its lines (£29.99, £24.99 Mix Six).
Flight 34
Three wines from a recent walkaround tasting hosted by Lea & Sandeman, who were showcasing their new world portfolio.
Bodega Chacra Lunita Pinot Noir 2021, Rio Negro, Argentina (£47.50, Lea & Sandeman)
It was great to taste wines from this Patagonia-based producer, which is run by Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, the grandson of the founder of Tenuta San Guido (producer of the iconic Sassicaia). This is extremely fruit forward with excellent perfumed red fruit, ready to drink now. I also loved the 2022 Chacra Chardonnay (£96.50), which was complex and fresh with a very long finish. I need to save up to afford that one though!
Damascene Syrah, Stellenbosch 2021, South Africa (£39.95, Lea & Sandeman)
Damascene’s first vintage was in 2018 and the producer has made an impact as its second vintage was sold out on release. This was quite peppery, a feature I like in syrah, with dense, black fruit. Likely to develop even more complexity after a couple more years’ ageing.
Rippon Emma’s Block Pinot Noir Mature Vine 2020, Central Otago, New Zealand (£94.95 Lea & Sandeman)
The first time I’ve tasted wines from this famous producer. The style is less showy and accessible than Felton Road, another iconic Central Otago producer, with an emphasis on precision, linearity and savouriness over fruit. Or at least that’s what I thought. The Emma’s Block tastes great now, but will be even better after several years’ ageing.
Know Your Grapes part 1: varieties that give lighter-bodied reds
Know Your Grapes part 2: varieties that give medium-bodied reds
Know Your Grapes part 3: nebbiolo, malbec and cabernet sauvignon
Know Your Grapes part 4: syrah, zinfandel and other full-bodied reds
Know Your Grapes part 5: chardonnay and pinot grigio
Know Your Grapes part 6: riesling and sauvignon blanc
Know Your Grapes part 7: chenin blanc and albarino
Know Your Grapes part 8: gewurztraminer, torrontes and viognier