Know Your Grapes part 3: nebbiolo, malbec and cabernet sauvignon
With recommendations and coolness ratings
After a detour via Cheltenham and Bulgaria it’s the return of the Know Your Grapes series and this instalment focuses on the nebbiolo, malbec and cabernet sauvignon varieties, all which tend to give full-bodied wines.
Initially I was going to lump all the full-bodied varieties into one big post, but it would be too long, so part four (out soon!) will cover the remaining varieties that can give full-bodied wines.
If you haven’t already done so you can read about light-bodied reds here and medium-bodied reds here.
What makes a red wine full-bodied? A WSET tutor once told me that a good way of determining the body of wine is to picture the following scenario: you’re in a pub or wine bar and the Uber you’ve ordered has arrived early and the driver is honking the horn outside asking you to get a move-on (not that Uber drivers necessarily do that – they’re more likely to drive off, but hopefully you get the idea).
You still have three-quarters of a glass of red wine in front of you. If you can neck that glass easily enough the chances are you’re drinking a light-bodied red. If you can still drink it quickly, albeit with a bit of effort, then it’s probably medium-bodied.
However, if you struggle and then start to feel the effects once you’re in the Uber then you’ve probably just consumed a full-bodied red wine.
The above explanation won’t necessarily be for everyone, and the ideal solution would be not to order your Uber too early. A more scientific approach would be to look at what a full-bodied wine consists of.
Alcohol levels are likely to be higher than light-bodied varieties. On many occasions (but not always) tannin will be higher than medium-bodied reds, and the fruit, generally speaking, will be riper. This is why lots of regions in the new world tend to produce fuller-bodied red wines than the old world.
The grapes grown in regions such as Barossa Valley in Australia, Mendoza in Argentina and Napa Valley in California get exposure to intense levels of heat and sunshine owing to low latitude, with the consequence that the grapes fully ripen, leading to higher sugar levels and higher alcohol once the fermentation process has finished.
So let’s get on to the three grape varieties, in order of lightest to fullest-bodied. Feel free to leave any comments at the end. The recommendations I provide can be purchased from supermarkets or Majestic.
Nebbiolo
Characteristics Pale in colour, like a pinot noir. High tannins and acidity – excellent structure for ageing. Delicate red cherry fruit with aromas of violets and rose petals. Can have a distinct herbal edge as well. Hard to grow as it’s vigorous and cluster-thinning is required in order to maintain quality. The wines can be complex and benefit from ageing – particularly the expensive, outstanding examples.
Where is it grown? Langhe, in the Piedmont region in north-west Italy, is the home of nebbiolo, where it can produce outstanding wines in the DOCGs1 of Barolo and Barbaresco. Also grown in some regions in Australia, in particular Adelaide Hills and King Valley in north east Victoria.
Coolness rating 3/5 Hugely admired by many wine enthusiasts because it can produce some outstanding, unique wines. The high tannins can be off-putting for many though, and it’s hard to get your hands on a budget nebbiolo.
Recommendations
Budget You can’t really get anything for under a tenner, and if you see a ‘Barolo’ for around this price then you’ll be drinking something that won’t resemble proper Barolo, so don’t bother.
Mid-range Hard to get at supermarkets, and if you do quality is dubious. Your best bet is to try Majestic’s ‘Definition’ Barolo for £24.99 (£18.74 mix six), which is verging on ‘for a special occasion’ territory, but that’s just the way it is when it comes to nebbiolo. It is a lighter style of nebbiolo, but with 14.5% alcohol, so a good introduction.
For a special occasion This is where a good independent wine shop comes in handy, because if you’re looking for a decent nebbiolo, chances are it will come from Barolo or Barbaresco, and even within these two famous regions styles vary greatly.
A knowledgeable retailer will be able to talk you through options and give you something you can drink without having to wait ten years for it to come round. That said, Majestic sells the Ciabot Berton Barolo 2018 for £32.99 (£24.74 mix six), which is drinking well now as Berton produces more accessible styles from La Morra, a village in the north west of Barolo renowned for lighter styles. If you find this beguiling then you could be on the way to becoming a nebbiolo nerd.
Malbec
Characteristics deeply-coloured, almost purple on occasion. Can be juicy with red and black plum and velvety tannins. Cheaper examples are prone to be overripe and sweet. More expensive malbecs can have additional complexity as a result of some oak ageing. In all, malbec is a good BBQ wine.
Where is it grown? It’s Argentina’s signature red grape variety and they produce tons of it, particularly in Mendoza. Malbec actually originated in France and is the main grape of the Cahors region in the south west, and it is also grown in relatively small quantities in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley (where it’s known as cot).
Coolness rating 4/5 has been a sensation in the 21st Century thanks almost entirely to Argentina’s production of it. Extremely popular with drinkers looking for budget wines because it’s easy to drink (unlike nebbiolo). Some traditionalists turn their nose up at it.
Recommendations
Budget Beefsteak Club malbec has been extraordinarily popular and can be bought almost anywhere for under a tenner, but I recommend spending a little bit more for a better-quality wine for an introduction to malbec.
Catena Zapata is legendary producer in Mendoza, making some of the best malbec in the world. Its entry-level example can be bought for £13 from Sainsbury’s and is worth trying. The wine undergoes some oak ageing for some extra spice and vanilla notes, which are complemented by ripe plum fruit.
Mid-range Colome is another reputable producer from Argentina in the Salta province, where vineyards are planted up to 3,000 metres in altitude. Its Colome Malbec ratchets up the intensity stakes. Rich, black fruit and silky tannins with spice from oak. Alcohol is 14.5%, and this is a quintessential full-bodied malbec – have it with some steak. £18.99 from Waitrose.
For a special occasion Made by Herve J Fabre, one of the pioneers of Argentinian malbec, the Vinalba ‘Cuvee Diane’ (named after Fabre’s wife) has been made from fruit grown in Lujan de Cuyo, a sub-region of Central Mendoza renowned for excellence. It has dark fruit and spice after 18 months of ageing in French oak. Some cabernet franc has been added to the blend for some red-fruited and herbaceous complexity. 15% alcohol, and is made to go with red meat. £39.99 (£29.99 mix six) from Majestic.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Characteristics The child of cabernet franc (which we looked at here) and sauvignon blanc, which explains why the variety often exhibits herbaceous notes, but styles vary enormously, from rich and ripe fruit bombs in California to more refined and savoury wines in Bordeaux. A general key feature is black fruit, in particular blackcurrant, but red fruit is also detectable, especially when grown in cooler areas (where it runs the risk of being underripe). Best examples tend to have high tannin and acidity, meaning it has good structure for ageing potential.
Where is it grown? In tons of places. It is the most widely-planted wine-grape variety, so a better question would be where isn't it grown. Left Bank Bordeaux is its spiritual homeland, and cabernet sauvignon is the dominant blend in the ‘grand vins’ of four of the five 'First Growths'2. It's also a key blend in Italy's 'Super Tuscans', and a lot of it is grown in Greece and Eastern Europe. Chile, the United States (in particular California and Washington), South Africa, Argentina, Australia and New Zealand all make cabernet sauvignon ranging in quality from budget to super-premium.
Coolness rating 5/5 Popular with die-hard enthusiasts, collectors, investors and supermarket buyers. Few have anything bad to say about cabernet sauvignon.
Recommendations
Budget Chile does some good budget cabernet sauvignon provided you pick the right producer and I'd go for the Errazuriz Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (£8.99 Waitrose) for a good introduction. A lot of Chilean cabernets have quite a distinct herbaceous edge to them, and this example should be a good guide as to whether cabernet is a grape you can get on with.
Mid-range South African wine can represent great value, such as Boekenhoutskloof's Helderberg Winery Reserve Red 2021 from Stellenbosch (£19.99 Majestic, £16.99 mix six). It's a blend of 90% cabernet with some cinsault and syrah, and cabernet's signature blackcurrant fruit is evident on the palate. 16-months' oak ageing gives spicy and liquorice notes.
For a special occasion It would help you to know what your preferred style is (and that of your guests) before spending a lot of money on a cab sauv. Generally speaking, if you want ripe and rich look to California, parts of Australia and Argentina. If you want herbaceousness look to Chile. If you want something more refined and complex after some bottle ageing then look to Bordeaux.
There are also plenty of styles in between these benchmarks, so there's lots to explore. When it comes to Bordeaux, Chateau Rauzan-Segla's 2016 second wine 'Segla' (don't think about buying its first wine, unless you have money to burn) from Majestic (£49.99, £37.49 mix six) is now drinking great after a few years' ageing, and 2016 was a good year. From the Left Bank appellation Margaux, which is renowned for delicacy over power. Alternatively, if you want big and bold then look to California and Dominus Estate 2019 'Othello' (£48 Majestic, £36 mix six). Or get both and compare and contrast.
Flight 13 - lucky for me
Bosco del Merlo Prosecco Rose Brut 2021 (£15.99 The Winery)
The ‘P’ word has yet to appear in Wine Flights because I don’t tend to drink much prosecco, but I really enjoyed this one during The Winery’s latest convivial tasting in Maida Vale. 85% glera with 15% pinot noir. Off-dry, delicate red-berried and pear fruit with decent acidity. Would make a great start to the evening.
Fruitiere Vinicole de Pupillin Savagnin 2018, Arbois, Jura (approximately 20 euros, Nicolas Wines)
Bought in a Nicolas Wines sale while in Paris last month. Made in an oxidative style characteristic of some white wines from the Jura region in eastern France, where the liquid ages under flor – a film of yeast - for a number of years in the same way fino sherry is made. Very nutty with accompanying notes of camomile and hay. Bruised apple and dried peach. Decent complexity but there are better expressions of this style of wine and the salinity and saltiness you get with a good fino is missing.
Chateau L’Oiseliniere de la Ramee Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine sur lie 2019 (£9.95 Wine Society)
Muscadet is often overlooked when it comes to white wine but it shouldn’t be because some excellent wines are made in the appellation. This is great value for under a tenner, with muscadet’s signature green apple with some brioche and pastry notes (from the lees ageing, or ‘sur lie’ as they say in Muscadet). Great salinity and freshness owing to the high acidity. Good wine to pair with a starter.
Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita - the highest classification of Italian wines.
The best chateaux in Bordeaux as determined by an archaic classification devised in 1855